More artisan distilleries are beginning to experiment with heirloom varieties of corn. Each distiller will say that their choice of heirloom corn adds a unique flavor to their whiskey and that is why they are using that corn in their mash. I am not a scientist and I have not seen lab analysis of whiskeys using heirloom grains, so I can not tell you why these whiskeys taste different on a chemical level, but I do know that they do taste different. The standard yellow corn used by most distilleries contributes a sweetness of corn and often a thick and rich mouthfeel from the corn oils. I thought I would look at three whiskeys, two Bourbons and a Corn Whiskey, that use heirloom corn in their mash bill. Jeptha Creed uses Bloody Butcher red corn. Dettling 1867 uses an heirloom variety of white corn. Balcones Baby Blue Corn Whisky uses an heirloom blue corn.

Jeptha Creed Distillery is owned by the Nethery family of Shelby County, Kentucky. They are true farmer-distillers. They plant the Bloody Butcher corn on their farm and Joyce Nethery, the distiller, turns it into Bourbon. Joyce is fond of telling the story that one of the reasons she uses Bloody Butcher is the fact that the white tailed deer will pass up fields of yellow corn to eat her Bloody Butcher corn. If the deer like it so much, it is a sign that it tastes better than yellow corn. They have a straight four grain Bourbon on the market that is between two and three years old, and soon should have a traditional Bourbon and a wheated Bourbon on the market. They are waiting until those whiskeys are at least four year old before releasing them to the public. These whiskeys all use the Bloody Butcher corn. The four grain is 98 proof and has a nose that is corn, vanilla, peaches, baking spice and sweet oak. The taste is corn, peaches, allspice, vanilla and oak. The finish is long with some sweet oak, vanilla and cinnamon. There is a rich, chewy mouth-feel to this whiskey that is probably from the corn. The corn sweetness of the taste is very rich and sweeter than most Bourbons. Bloody Butcher definitely makes a very different flavor profile.

Dettling 1867 Bourbon is the brand of Big Escambia Spirits, LLC., of Altmore, Alabama. The distiller, Seth Dettling, has told me that the variety of white corn that he uses in his Bourbon is the variety of corn he grew up eating as corn bread. He believes that it makes the best corn bread and he sent me some corn meal to try for myself. It does make very good corn bread. I grew up with Hickory Cane white corn, raised by my grandfather in Barren County, Kentucky, and this corn bread, made from the Dettling corn, was almost as good as that made by my grandmother. The Dettling 1867 Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon is made with this white corn. The nose is rich butterscotch, corn, dried apricots, and sweet oak. The taste is corn, apricots French vanilla, ginger and cardamom spices and oak. The finish is long with sweet oak and spices. White corn is not as oily as other varieties of corn and the mouth-feel reflects that fact. Thin but still full of flavor from the corn. I believe the white corn does not contribute as strong a corn flavor and allows other flavors to come through in the whiskey. Once again, a very different flavor than what is found in Bourbons made from yellow corn.

Balcones Baby Blue Corn Whisky is made by Balcones Distilling of Waco, Texas. It is a 92 proof corn whiskey with no age statement. It is made with roasted blue corn. I am not sure if any other distillery makes whiskey from a roasted corn, let alone an heirloom variety of blue corn. The label states that the blue corn is “rich and oily” and that roasting adds a “round nuttiness”. The nose of this corn whisky is butterscotch and corn. Not a complex nose, but a very pleasant nose. The taste is butterscotch, corn, a little pepper spice and yes, a little walnut or pecan nuttiness. The finish is long, with the nuttiness coming out strong in the finish with a little sweet oak, a hint of pepper spice and butterscotch. I believe the statement on the label label. The mouth-feel is thick and chewy and the blue corn does seem to bring a nutty and maybe even a little smoky note to the finish.
Three different heirloom corns, making three very different whiskeys. I do hope that you will taste these whiskeys yourself. Everybody has different tastes, but I think everyone will agree that these whiskeys are different from the run of the mill whiskeys made with yellow corn.


Photos Courtesy of Rosemary Miller
March 15, 2021 at 10:13 am
Bluegrass Distillers in Lexington. KY has crafted Blue Corn Bourbon for several years! Right now we are sampling and selling Blue Corn 4 year old 126 proof Single Barrel Bourbon. 75% Blue Corn, 21% Wheat, 4% Malted Barley. Steve Morgan – Bluegrass Distillers.
March 18, 2021 at 6:58 pm
I would love to review this whiskey. What is the label it is being bottled as so I can look for it?
March 18, 2021 at 11:26 pm
Single Barrels only available at the Distillery, we could bottles to you. We usually have Single Barrel Wheated, High Rye, and Blue Corn Bourbon. I read your blog all the time, and where are you located?
Steve
March 19, 2021 at 12:01 am
I am in Louisville.
March 19, 2021 at 10:01 am
Michael,
Right now, our 90 proof expressions of Wheated and High Rye Bourbons in 750ml are generally available at Liquor Barn, Total Wine, Kroger Spirits, and are at a few other KY stores. Also available at several locations in Nebraska. We are currently in the process of converting to a new logo and labels for all of our products. Our Single Barrels are only in 750ml, and our 90 proof expressions are in 750ml and sometimes 375ml. As soon as our labeling is converted and we are in stock on most or all of our products, I will contact you to set up a date and time that I can drop off samples, etc. I live in Midway, and I am in Louisville 2-3 times each month visiting my daughter’s family. You have probably already heard that we are moving our distillery this year to the 70+ acre Elkwood Farm on I-64, exit 65 near Midway, Kentucky. To see our new labels and other information visit bluegrassdistillers.com
Thank you for following up with us! Steve
March 15, 2021 at 5:20 pm
What a great peek into the world of non-#2-dent bourbon! I’m sure you’ll hear from more like Steve Morgan. We anticipate a follow up (or two). Also, congrats again on Rosemary’s photography, especially the the theme-illustrating red-white-and-blue striped kernels.
March 18, 2021 at 6:57 pm
Rosemary thanks you for the compliment on are photographs. I agree, there will be many more distillers using heritage grains in the future,
March 19, 2021 at 2:56 pm
My favorite red corn variety is Revival from Highwire Distilling in SC who use an heirloom Jimmy Red corn; while not distributed in KY yet I’d be happy to share any of the selections I have.
March 23, 2021 at 5:37 pm
Michael, Just checking, how much volume do you need for your sampling, etc. Relating to your previous Heirloom Corn article, I can bring a full bottle of our current Blue Corn(wheated) Single Barrel 125 proof that we only sell at our Distillery, except BourbonOutfitter.com does have this in stock. Then, we also have Blue Corn(wheated) 90 proof, Wheated(yellow corn) 90 proof, and High Rye(yellow corn) 90 proof that we have distributed by River City distributing in Kentucky. Please advise, Thanks, Steve Morgan
March 24, 2021 at 8:59 pm
I like at least one 750ml to use for the review so that I can use it for the photograph. If you have more than one sample and they have a similar bottle and label, than about 100ml samples are fine for the review. However, I do need the label information on the sample bottles.
March 26, 2021 at 9:18 am
Michael,
I will be in Louisville on Friday, April 2nd from around 11am till 5 or 6pm. I can drop off the bottles for Bluegrass Distillers, just give me a time and address. If you want to keep this info private, you can message me on facebook, or email me separately from this page. Look forward to meeting you. Steve
March 26, 2021 at 8:36 pm
I am at 1265 Willow Ave. my number is (502)777-8465. Please call when you are on the way here so I can watch for you.
March 26, 2021 at 8:38 pm
Will do!
March 30, 2021 at 12:40 pm
Michael,
Something has come up on this Friday, and I will not make it to Louisville. At this point, I am planning to be there next Wednesday, April 7th, if that works for you? I will contact you that morning to double check with you on the time.
Thanks, Steve
March 31, 2021 at 4:29 pm
No Problem. Just be sure and to call to see if I am home.